6 Steps for a Hooded Eye Lift


Hooded eyes can appear heavy on mature skin.  We will combat aging by helping define the crease we want the mirror to see using six easy steps.  I’ve coined this method the Tri (angle) Fecta Method.  We will lift your hooded eyes with these six steps.  Your lids will look raised, lifting the eyes so that the color along the crease POPs in a triangle shape almost.

hooded-eye-lift-crease
From your crease line and just above the crease, we are carving out our crease for the hooded eye lift.

I have practiced these six steps for my hooded eyes with my new travel makeup palette.  I can do everything I want on my face with this one palette.  Today, I’m teaching you how to lift your hooded eyes with chocolate-y brown and pink colors.  Use these colors on yourself, or use other ones that I suggest in the video.

hooded-eye-look-balm-voyage
Got this travel palette last week, and I’m using it this weekend for our trip to leaf peep. I love The Balm Voyage eyeshadow for this hooded eye look.

1) Start with primed and off white color if that’s your base skin color.

2) Pick a transition color; one that is close to your skin tone but with a sun kissed look.

No windshield wipers in hooded eyes.

Go straight across a few times.  Then you can blend.  We are carving out the crease….not the direction of YOUR crease.  We’re making our own crease.

lift-look-hooded-eyes-six-steps
Not too much; not too little; with practice your hooded eyes will appear lifted.

For hooded eyes, our crease needs to lift our lids…so don’t bring the eyeshadow down into the crease.  See where your crease ends down here at the outer corner of your eye?  We don’t want crease colors to go down in that angle; otherwise, it’ll look like your eyes are sagging out there.  That line will be the base of our lift.

3) Dimension:

We are smoothing and adding dimension by building color with two-three similar colors.  I’m using this skin-toned color, a chocolate color that isn’t dark at all and a deep dark brown.  These are going to be our base of colors…our stairway to the color we want them to see.  It’s as if it was a pyramid with rosy chocolate being the top.  We’re doing the same movement with each of these similar colors.

When you mix pink and brown, it has a purple cranberry tone to it.   It’ll almost glow upwards, instantly lifting your hooded eyelids.

If you can’t do tan, try light pink tones as your crease 2-3 shades.  Then put an orange or deep blue or deep purple (with no pastel in it).

4) Blending:

With transition colors or mid tone colors, I use a fluffy or wider blending brush.  It takes some of the color while blending.

So I’m blending around the edges for my hooded eyes crease to lift into a triangle shape.

5) Rocket Launcher Color

Now I’m taking a brush that is not going to spread color.  I’m choosing a brush that will keep the color exactly where I put it – a deep brown.  Most of my weight was on the middle of my eye inside the crease, but the shades extend straight outward by blending.  Here I use the pointed blending brush by Elf.  I use a pointed blending brush-a tight blending brush if I don’t really want the color to sweep everywhere…like in the corners later on.  The tight blending brush just softens the edges of my more intense color.

I cannot have deep color in the inside corner of my eyelids.  Because I have hooded eyes, they look heavy on the inside and weigh my eyelids down.  Then, my eyes look small instead of lifted and opened.  With dimension layers, my eyelids look raised.

This color is so important.  This deep color will propel the space above your crease to glow.  It’s launching your eyes to see the space ABOVE your crease.

hooded-eye-brush-shadow
I have way too many brushes lol. I don’t like mixing colors. Do you use the same brush on several colors?

6) Repeat Transition Color

Sweep on one final windshield wiper motion sweep of the pink or light tan transition color you used.  You are going to be surprised how this eyeshadow lift looks after you put on the rest of your makeup.  Don’t miss this process.  If you need the color to be a bit brighter, add a touch of your blush above your triangle base.

Chocolates and browns give the illusion that there is a purple and bright burgundy and gray in the mix of your hooded eye lift look.  And then you add that illuminator along your lash line; there’s a tad of shimmer in it so don’t put it all the way up.  This is just helping the tri-angle-fecta lift to POP.

I’ve recently gone back to my kabuki brush for applying foundation.  I’m in-between seasons right now, and I probably should’ve used the lighter foundation shade only.

I’m adding my It Cosmetics CC UnderEye Concealer; this helps my skin look luminous and conceals like no other.  I need to buy another one.  I’ve had this for a year.

I add my eyeliner right there on the edge of my upper eyelid and lower lid.  Just go along the corners; give that a try!  You don’t want any skin to show between the lash line and the eyeliner color.  Smudge the edges with any brush or your fingers.

Then I carve out the darkness with my It Cosmetics Super Hero Volumizing Mascara.

Be careful with blush; you can see I put on a little too much; think sun-kissed.  Not drenched with color.

I love the Balm Voyage volume 2 bronzer.  It truly gives you a sun kissed look to bring your skin tone to look alive ha and not dreary winter blah.  Like you’ve taken a trip to the tropics.  I put bronzer on my neck to blur that line between my foundation and white neck color.  I sweep it across my under eye concealer to set it.  And I sweep it lightly around the edges of my face.

hooded-eye-look-chocolate-pink-color
See where I carved out where my crease should be and put all the other color layers above and on it?

When I’m in a hurry, I’ve put on the darkest color first, and then I look like i have a ton of eyeshadow on.  Now I have learned that it is because I didn’t set it up for success.  Ha.  I need to build a foundation layer of dimension on my hooded eyes, and this darker color is going to give a deeper dimension that will lift upwards.

crease-layers-hooded-eyes
Bad lighting, but you can see that with the light color on my very lower lid, the layers of colors at my crease and above POP?

Practice:

When you have a time to practice, take your time.  If you mess up, use a q-tip and makeup remover for areas that need erasing.  Follow my tutorial for hooded eyes and walk away.  Do something, run an errand.  Then come back and see how the eyelids look.  At first you will feel like you have a lot on.  If you practice applying layers of eyeshadow in this way, it will not look like you have caked on eyeshadow.  You will have soft depths of layers lifting your hooded eyes with some personality.

If you have a q-tip or round cotton thingy (see my paper I’ve cut out) you can put some makeup remover on it and drag it up to sharpen up the edge of your eyeshadow art.

Thank you for POPping over to hear/read these six steps for your own hooded eye lift!

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I occasionally use affiliate links, and all opinions are my very honest ones.

 

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